Perfume
Fragrance Classification
A - ALI-FAT-IC Fatty, Waxy, Soapy, Clean
B - BERG & ICEBERG Cooling, Borneol, Mint, Camphor
C - CITRUS Sour, Sharp, Citrus peel
D - DAIRY Milky, Cream, Butter, Cheese
E - EDIBLE Vegetable, Nut, Fish, Meat
F - FRUIT Sour, Sweet fruits, Strawberry
G - GREEN Cut-grass, Leaves
H - HERB Cool Herbaceous notes
I - IRIS Orris/Iris (kosatec), Violet
J - JASMIN Fruity, Oily, Narcotic, Jasmin
K - KONIFER Pine, Pineneedle
L - LIGHT Chemical Floral Fresh light floral chemical
M - MUGUET Lily of the Valley, Green, Fresh
N - NARCOTIC Heavy Sweet Florals, Absolutes
O - ORCHID Deep floral, Aromatic
P - PHENOL Phenol, Medicinal, Honey
Q - QUEEN of the ORIENT Resin, Balsam
R - ROSE Rose Otto, Absolute, Geranium
S - SPICE (Hot) Hot Culinary, Spice
T - TAR & SMOKE Smoke, Tar, Burnt
U - URINE ANIMAL Animal, Faecal, Leather
V - VANILLA Sweet Edible, Vanilla
W - WOOD Wood Oily, Santal
X - X-rated MUSK Sexy, Musk, Sensual, Sweet
Y - EARTHY MOSSY Yeast, Fungal, Moss, Marine
Z - ZOLVENTS Odourless Solvents, Solubilisers, DEP, DPG, IPP, Ethanol, PG
Perfumes: Fragrantica Niche Perfumes *.* Best Perfumes? Perfume Shrine Osmanthos Zielinski & Rozen
Materials: Parfume Words (Aroma Chemicals pdf) PipingRock Love Scent, pure pheromones AllBizMart, India Wellington fragrance company, USA Midwest Sea Salt, USA CREATING PERFUME Majestic Pure Essential Trading Post Calmers Solutions PG-Chem * U šikovných rúk Myrrh *.*.*.+ Lab.tech. * Ancient Wisdom (with DPG 10x10 ml) *, Ancient Wisdom (100% pure, 500 ml) * 15%+DPG; Flora, Slovnatur Salos *, Nobilis Tilia, Benzoin, NT SCENT MARKET Candle Supply Gracefruit Just Mydlový svet Siberica Bio3000 * Natural Trade Zdravie z bylin Garner Beauty Flakony Attar Bazar
Articles:
Perfume Compounds Video
Extraction
Creating Perfume
Parfém? Nie!
Advanced Biotech
Leffingwell
About *.*
CREATING PERFUME
IFRA limit for Category 4 (A/B) (which covers fine fragrance and anything in an alcohol base)
IFRA Standards PDF
The Good Scents Company Information System
Givaudan
Perfumer Flavorist news
- Perfumers Alcohol Ethanol (denatured) - Alcohol which is the main carrier for the fragrance oils. This evaporates quickly as it is warmed by skin temperature releasing the fragrances evenly over the surface. Isopropyl myristate IPM – used in preparations where good absorption is desired. Monopropylene glycol MPG – a cosolvent which allows the fragrance oils to be solubilised in the alcohol carrier. This helps to control the evaporation of the alcohol so that it does not flash off too quickly.
- IPM - Isopropyl Myristate, IPM IPM (Isopropyl Myristate) can be used to dilute aroma chemicals. It is clear and odorless. It's used in cosmetic and topical medicinal preparations. It's also perfect as a perfume diluent in place of other oils or alcohol. A good base for roll-on perfumes. IPM is also miscible with perfumers alcohol and many other carrier oils.
- IPA -
Isopropanol, Isopropyl Alcohol * (2-propanol) - PEA - Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol, It has a pleasant floral odor.
- PG - Propylene glycol / PG / MPG / GPG - General Purpose Grade
- DPG -
Dipropylen glycol *
Dipropylene Glycol (Fragrance Grade) DPG.
This is a much thicker heavier diluent for perfumes and skin care products.
Commonly used with musks. Many people think it's a good fixative.
But truly the only fixatives in perfume come from the aromatic ingredients themselves.
This base is best for heavy molecules.
Perfume alcohol (not DPG) is best if you are looking to create lift in perfume.
- Reed Diffuser Base - 25% ethanol, 75% DPG (low IMPACT)
- Perfumers Alcohol - Base for blending fragrance oils: Ethanol + IPM (absorbce) + MPG (regulation),*
- Formulators Alcohol - Base for room sprays, Perfumes and EdC : Ethanol + IPA (absorbce) + DPG (regulation)
- Glucamu P-20 *
- TEC - Triethyl Citrate, TEC TRIETHYL CITRATE NATURAL (TEC) VERY FAINT WINE, PLUM ODOR. This natural solvent is great for natural perfumes. Works as a wonderful fixative and solvent. its light aroma is pleasant and unobtrusive. Triethyl citrate is an ester of citric acid from citrus fruits Odor Strength: none. Odor Description: mild fruity wine. Substantivity: 216 Hour(s). CAS Numbers: 77-93-0
- Glycerin, don't use glycerin in perfume
- Forum
Acronyms:
- P - Perfume extract (Extraint): 20% - 40% (IFRA: typical 20%) *
- EDP, PDT - Eau de Parfum : 15% - 20 % or Parfum de Toilette (PdT), typical 15%
- EDT - Eau de Toilette : 5% - 15%
- EDC - Eau de Cologne: 3% - 8%
- EDS - Splash and After shave: 1%-3%
- RIFM - Research Institute for Fragrance Ingredients (RIFM)
- FEMA - Flavour And Extract Manufacturers Association
- IFRA - The International Fragrance Association (IFRA), founded in 1973
- IFRA standards
- GC - Gas Chromatography
- EINECS European Inventory of Existing Commercial Chemical Substances
- CAS Chemical Abstracts Service (division of the American Chemical Society)
- MSDS / SDS Material Safety Data Sheet
Fragrance Industry Leaders: *
Givaudan
Firmenich
IFF
Symrise
Takasago
<Mane SA
Frutarom
Sensient Flavors
Robertet SA
T. Hasegawa
Huabao Intl.
Formulas
(techniques)
Heart (Basic): A material that forms the heart or basic smell of the perfume, a material that smells like the title.
Modifier: A material that decorates the smell, adds freshness, naturalness, fruity, green, spicy etc.
Blender: A material that helps link and harmonize he disparate basics and blenders, rounds or smoothes the perfume
Fixative: A materials used to add depth and a time element to the perfume and a trace or substantive note.
Recipes: (1 drop = 0,05 ml, 20 drops = 1 ml) More Recipes
Získávanie prírodných aromatických látok
Rozdelenie parfémov
V zásade sa vône parfémov bežne dostupných na trhu rozdeľujú do kategórií * a to aromatické, aldehydové, kvetinové, orientálne, citrusové, cyprusové (chypre), fougére (fužér), ozónové, drevnaté a kožené. (link)
(Rozdelenie parfémov podrobnejšie tu)
Výpočet koncentrácie
Vzorec: c=m/V
Ak 10 ml (zhruba je to 10g) koncentrovaného esencálneho oleja dolejeme alkoholom na 50 ml, tak získame 20 percentnú konentráciu výsledného roztoku: 10/50=0.2 (20%).
1 ml = 20 kvapiek, flakóny: [1], [2]
Aromaterapia
Podstatným rozdielom medzi aromaterapeutickými vonnými zmesami a parfumom je, že aromaterapia sleduje zdravotné a psychické účinky príodných esencií.
Snaží vytvoriť vône s kombináciou prírodných esencií pre príjemný pocit nejakej miestnosti, istým liečivým účinkom, bez požitia syntetckých vonných látok a alkoholu.
Tieto kompozície vynikajúco sa hodia na zvýšenie zmyselnosti a navodenia príjemných pocitov, optimizmu, či na povzbudenie duchovného vedomia.
Môžu byť použité aj pri kúpeloch, alebo do olejov na pokožku, napríklad ako masážne oleje, alebo do rôznych krémov.
Aj keď aromaterapeutické zmesi môžu byť príjemné vône napríklad do bytu, to ešte zďaleka neznamená, že by to ľudia radi používali ako osobný parfum, samozrejme až na pár výnimiek.
Tuhý parfem
Simple Recipes
1. WOODSY RAIN: 5 Bergamot, 4 Lime, 2 Cedarwood, 1 Patchouli
2. STRESS MANAGEMENT: 4 Cedarwood, 3 Bergamot, 2 Jasmine, 1 Nerol
3. PEACE OUT: 3 Cedarwood, 3 Frankincense, 1 Roman chamomile, 1 Orange, 1 Vanilla
4. PURE AIR: 4 Eucalyptus, 4 Lemon, 3 Levander
5. INNER PEACE: 5 Orange, 3 Frankincense, 1 Lemongrass (Lemongrass and Citronella Differences)
6. COSY COCOON: 5 Bergamot, 3 Cedarwood, 3 Frankincense
7. MOON DUST: 3 Rose, 2 Patchouli, 2 Sandalwood, 1 Lemongrass, 1 Vetiver
8. WALK IN THE WOODS: 5 Pepermint, 3 Cinnamon bark, 3 Pine
9. APHRODISIAC: 4 Orange, 3 Levander, 2 Patchouli, 2 Ylang Ylang, 1 Jasmine
10. HOPE: 4 Bergamot, 3 Ylang-ylang, 2 Frankincense
12. MAA: 8 Vanilla, 8 Frankincense, 4 Vetiver EO, 4 Sandalwood, 3 Cedarwood, 6 Rose, 10 Lavender, 11 Nag Champa, 11 Grapefruit
13. ORIENTAL BLOOM: 3 Frankincense, 7 Ylang Ylang, 7 Rose, 8 Cinnamon, 11 Orange Blossom, 13 Peach
14. FLORAL BLEND: 5 Ylang Ylang EO, 3 Jasmine EO, 2 Rose Water Concentrate
Some synthetic fragrance, fixatives/blenders
* Aurantiol 50% in DPG,(link) Top Note fixative, Floral Orange blossom, bright, fixative/base to top notes.
Aurantiol is perhaps the best known Schiff base and is extensively used in a large variety of floral notes such as orange-blossom, linden-blossom and tuberose. Used in citrus cologne types, it acts as an excellent fixative as well as exalting the top notes. It gives an oriental character when used in amber an chypre compositions and blends particularly well with macrocyclic musks.
* Benzyl Salicylate, (link) Fixative/Structure, Floral, Clean balsam, fresh, sweet clean herbal, slightly spicy
Widely used as a blender in perfumery, and generally as a mild, floral background with an effect not unlike that of Ylang-Ylang (except for power and topnote). Excellent in all florals, Carnation, Wallflower in particular.”
* Cumarin, (link) Balsam new mown hay, tonka, sweet clover
Insoluble in IPM, Arctander describes it as “Sweet, herbaceous-warm, somewhat spicy odor, in extreme dilution more haylike, nut- Iike, tobacco-like… Extensively used in perfumery to support herbaccous odors, Lavender, Lavandin, Rosemary, Citrus oils, Oakmoss, etc., and as a fixative in numerous types of fragrances; Almost a standard ingredient in Fougère types with Amylsalicylate and Lavender-notes, with or without Oakmoss.
* Galaxolide, (link) Musk, Clean, powerful iso-chroman musk, superb fragrance, persistant
Together with Hedione, Methyl Ionone Gamma, and Iso E Super, in roughly equal proportions, it is a key component of the so-called “Grojsman accord” more aptly named “hug me” by the perfumer herself: undeniably one of the most influential in modern perfumery. Sophia Grojsman first developed the accord for a perfume she made for herself. It took the world of feminine perfume by storm after being incorporated in a number of early 1990’s hits: first and most importantly in Grojsman’s Tresor (Lanc�me, 1990), but then in her Spellbound (Lauder, 1991), in Michel Almairac’s Casmir (Chopard, 1991), Maurice Roger’s Dune (Dior, 1991), and so on. (S&C) Besides its diffusive, linear and instantly recognizable character, the accord is exceptionally transparent and versatile: even in large doses sometimes more than 3/4 of the formula -, the characteristic effect of the accord can be introduced in a nearly limitless range of landscapes, without silencing its surroundings. The accord also takes well to modifications in the proportions between its components, further expanding the its potential uses while preserving much of its distinctive smell. Tresor itself is a case in point, with the Hedione content at around a third of that of the other 3 ingredients.
* Hedione, (link) Floral, Elegant, transparent floral, jasmine note w/citrus freshness
Arctander, writing very soon after it became available and before it’s full potential has been realised has this to say of it: “This ester, only recently brought into the market as a commercially available perfume chemical, is intended for use in artificial Jasmin absolute, Jasmin and Tuberose bases, and as a trace additive in powerfully floral fragrances. It serves as an economical substitute for Methyl jasmonate (see monograph), but does not have the overwhelming sweetness and diffusive power of that material.” By the time Arcadi Boix Camps is writing about it in 1978 it has already seen use in many successful fragrances. He says it is “the compound that without a doubt has most influenced modern perfumery and has allowed the great artists to develop their ideas with inspiration. It was used for the first time in Eau Sauvage and in Diorissimo, and it has become famous because it gives to compositions a delicate, fresh, smooth, radiant, warm, elegant character that blends well with all kinds of perfumes from floral-citrics to woody, chypre and oriental. HEDIONE® is an indispensable material for the perfumer. Besides use in jasmine and its family of florals, it gives original effects in virtually all fragrance types. It is normally used at a concentration of between 2 and 15%, but can be used at levels of 35% and above.
* Hercolyn D, (link) Fixative, Balsam, Light amber liquid resinous, resistant to aging. Consistent mild odor
Hercolyn D (as distinct from plain Hercolyn) is a specially deodorised quality of Hercolyn primarily useful as a perfumery solvent rather than an aromatic ingredient, although it does still have some residual odour. This material is a very high viscosity, sticky, solvent; pourable but thick and straw-to-pale-amber in colour, with good solubility in ethanol. It has extremely helpful fixative effects and is also useful as a general blender.
* Jessemal Jasmonyl, (link) Floral, Jasmine note, extremely rich and stable
* Lemonile, (link) Citrus, Imparts freshness and diffusion, extremely powerful
Lemonile is used in lemon, verbena and lime compositions where it imparts freshness and diffusion. This nitrile is an extremely powerful chemical and has excellent stability in alkaline media. More natural and long lasting than Geranitrile T.
* Lyral, (link) Blender/richness, Floral, muguet, aldehydic, soft, delicate floral, lily, cyclamen
Extraordinary tenacity and diffusivity. A powerful blending agent giving richness throughout all dryout phases of a perfume composition.Used in floral fragrances, mainly muguet accords. Unique as a fine light flower tone that is extremely long lasting.Arctander writes very enthusiastically about this material: “Lyral was at first believed to be of fixative value only, e. g. in high-class soap perfumes, etc. But it was soon discovered that Lyral has a floral volume which, when properly �cultivated’ by the creative perfumer, often outperforms Hydrocitronellal and any other floral chemical or combination of chemicals, its application is therefore continuously expanding from the single floral Muguet to become the �must’ in cosmetic fragrances where tenacity and sweet-powdery, stable terminal notes are called for. It blends excellently with the Ionones and with the conventional resinoids (Styrax, Tolu, Peru, etc. ) and it may either accompany Hydroxycitronellal or substitute it.
* Sandela, (link) Wood, Sandalwood, clean, sweet, woody, high odor. A classical sandalwood note that can be used in all fragrance types.
* Nerolin Bromelia 10% in DPG , (link) Fruit/Floral, Neroli, orange blossom, fruity, sweet, Naphtha, floral, orange blossom, powdery, grape
* Musk Ketone, (link)
* Vanillin, (link)
Some writings
Chapter 17, Perfume
MUSK
Advanced Blending Techniques
Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The Chypres
TERMINOLOGY
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